Bombay-born restaurateur and incurable wanderer — chasing good smoke, longer tables, and the next unfamiliar street.
Some people belong to a city. Babu Taranza belongs to the road between them — the tandoor's first heat at dawn, a balcony over red rooftops, a quiet bench beneath impossible trees.
He grew up among the spice and clamour of Bombay, where a meal was never only a meal and an argument was a kind of affection. That early schooling in heat and hospitality became a trade: kitchens of his own, long tables, a standing belief that the fastest way to understand a place is to eat where its grandmothers eat.
What survives the travel is curiosity. He collects languages the way others collect stamps, reads about mountains he hasn't climbed, and holds strong, cheerful opinions about how a thing ought to be cooked. He is easy to find at the end of a meal and harder to pin down before one.
Terracotta tiles, distant blue hills, the particular stillness of an afternoon that belongs to nobody. He keeps these in-between hours like souvenirs.
Sunglasses on, a falls behind him, a friend just out of frame. Proof of a simple rule he lives by: never tour a city alone, and never rush a good fountain.
A leather jacket, a borrowed crimson, and trees old enough to make a busy man sit very still. He recommends the practice highly.
Open wine, a long counter, the soft chaos of a dinner winding down. His favourite room in any house is whichever one the kitchen opens into.
"Set one more place. He is on his way."— The house motto